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Here’s a doll on the side of the road in Queens. It looked really surreal, like a metaphor for lost childhood or something. I can’t imagine a kid actually playing there and leaving it that way like it was fighting somebody off, so maybe someone put it there and positioned it like that deliberately.
Code Deco is a unique Singapore-based perfume company that started last year under perfumer and founder Gauri Garodia. She presented her jazz-based fragrance collection at Spring Fling Sniffapalooza. The concept is great: it’s such a hard thing to relate scent to anything else, let alone another fleeting sensation like music. Even better, the fragrances are good.
A Minor is designed for men. It has that distinguished feel of aftershave, although aftershave usually has the notes arranged differently and with lower quality ingredients. Here’s the note list from Code Deco’s beautifully designed website: pink pomelo, bergamot, plum, prune, clove madagascar, cinnamon bark, bay leaf, geranium, vetiver haiti, amber, red sandalwood, musk
A Minor opens up as a dark, spicy citrus. I get the cinnamon and clove as an abstraction more than stark notes that stand out. The citrus is coming from the pink pomelo, a citrus fruit originating in Southeast Asia. The bergamot manages not to be too bright, but jaunty nonetheless. It’s strong. It could be a better version of Old Spice.
The vetiver is the main note. It comes in after a few minutes and holds through the heart and the base of the fragrance, accented by the sandalwood. It remains sharp for a while. I don’t know much about jazz, but I went to a jazz concert once and I’m getting a similar mood from A Minor. The guy it personifies would definitely like exuberant, loosely-structured music in a cozy room. I usually find vetiver a bit dry, but this fragrance is brimming with good humor.
The drydown is musky and the sandalwood stands out more, but vetiver is still the main player. It has great lasting power and is better sprayed on clothes. I think a lot of guys would like to wear A Minor on a regular basis. It has the familiar qualities of men’s fragrance: vetiver, spices, not many florals, but it’s friendly and high-quality enough to stand out anyway. A Minor isn’t reinventing the wheel, but it’s a top-shelf everyday perfume for affable guys with good taste.
Perfumer: Gauri Garodia
Price Range: Very Expensive
Recommended Occasion: Any
Release Year: 2013
My Rating: 7.5
Check out another review at Style Flavors.
One of the great things about Sniffapalooza is that you get to learn about brand new perfume houses before anyone else does. Manuela Pfannes-Völkel is a German perfumer who started making privately commissioned scents years ago, and just started her own house, Arts and Scents.
Pfannes-Völkel likes to mix scents you don’t usually see together, like mint and tonka. Her perfume line is accessible and a little kitschy, with names like Wild Cat Musk, Fantastic Green Bird, and Dream Of India.
NY Steel Flowers was inspired by the mix of nature and industry you see in New York City. It’s a great concept. New York City thinks commerce rules everything, which is true in the human world but nature still fights back when prompted. That premise has not only brought forth cool fragrances, but also time-tested blockbuster films like Godzilla. (He feeds off nuclear waste. Watch the movie.)
New York City’s nature/industry pull can be shown in harmony, like in the High Line:
and it can also manifest with giant cranes dangling precariously from the most expensive residential building in Manhattan during Hurricane Sandy.
Anyway. It’s really hard to pin down the scent. It starts off sweet and woody, very, very sweet actually. It calms down fast. I think the overall effect is of a sweet tobacco. I can also detect some kind of machinized neocivet note in there, like a half-robot civet cat in 2134 who’s royally pissed at having been used to make perfume for so long. It’s a one-accord wonder, but recommended.
Perfumer: Manuela Pfannes-Völkel
Price Range: Moderate
Recommended Occasion: Casual
My Rating: 7
Angel is probably one of the biggest perfumes out there besides Chanel No. 5 and anything released by a daughter of OJ Simpson’s defense attorney. Its distinctive otherworldly periwinkle star bottle (followed in spirit by Alien) is pretty much everywhere, as is the deceptively simple patchouli-chocolate miasma that comes out of it.
I didn’t like it the first time. The second time was when I walked past Times Square’s Sephora at about 11:00 at night and sprayed the travel-size bottle just because it was so ubiquitous I had to try it again. That same effect keeps people going to McDonald’s to get fries. McDonald’s fries aren’t anywhere near as good as Wendy’s, but you see the ads so much that they become a permanent part of your subconscious and it’s like you haven’t fully achieved self-actualization until you get it with a side of Mickey D’s extra salted fries and a Quarter Pounder.
But McDonald’s sucks. And Angel is great.
Angel opens with the heady, throaty-voiced patchouli-chocolate blast and some ambiguous fruits (I’m getting orange rinds). It does have a distinctly androgynous character, like Tania Sanchez says in The Book. It’s such a powerful effect that I’m reminded of a falsetto choir singing at full blast in an echoing room.
(New York Polyphony, closest thing I could find)
The funny thing is, Angel isn’t loud. (Keep in mind, almost every other reviewer disagrees with me about this.) Its sillage isn’t much bigger than the average perfume, but its unmistakable effect makes you feel like it’s radiating to Mars. It was made in 1992, which was right before perfume houses transitioned from big distinctive beasts to osteoporotic clean fragrances. Also, Thierry Mugler designed things like this:
so he obviously wasn’t afraid to make a statement.
Angel also manages to be powdery on top of everything else. It’s a musty effect that keeps it from being too raw. I think that an undiluted chocolate/patchouli/fruit mashup would smell like the apartment of a hippie with the munchies. It also keeps it from being too edible. Angel is referred to as a gourmand. It almost smells edible, but not quite.
In the heart notes it smells more vanillic and a little more appetizing. The grand slam is over. The caramel comes in and the sharp citrus notes go out. The drydown is a warm, delicious caramel vanillic treat. It’s cool, but I think the untouchable top notes are way more interesting.
Here’s the note list, from Victoria at Bois de Jasmin’s detailed review: bergamot, mandarin, dewberry, honey, red berries, patchouli, Australian sandalwood, coumarin, vanilla, caramel, chocolate.
There’s two reasons Angel isn’t going to be one of my top ten favorite perfumes. Most importantly, it’s aloof. I definitely get the effect that a distinct personality is sitting on my skin when I spray it, but that personality isn’t going to be my friend. There’s nothing natural-smelling about it, it doesn’t meld into a skin scent, and it doesn’t tell any kind of emotional story except that this pretty and possibly hermaphroditic character is high-concept, high-art, and totally uninterested in me.
Basically, it’s a famous fashion designer.
Second, it has so many flankers that I feel like I’ve grown up with it, even though I’ve probably only smelled it a total of ten times. I like it. I might buy that travel-size bottle at Sephora for 25 bucks. But I can’t imagine myself connecting with it.
Perfumers: Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chirin
Price Range: Moderate
Recommended Occasion: Any
Release Year: 1992
My Rating: 8
Jen at ThisBlogReallyStinks is so-so about it.
The Candy Perfume Boy, like me, finds it brilliant but not relatable enough to wear all the time.
The Perfumed Dandy thinks it just smells too much like a chocolate shop.
(Photo from Yelp)
Ferraro’s is the mainstay Italian restaurant in Westfield, NJ. It’s family-owned, and has been in business since 1969. It has a second floor that seats 60-70 people and a bar/lounge that you can rent out for private parties. They have a huge wine rack and an extensive gluten-free menu. They were playing Frank Sinatra on the radio.
It’s pretty good. The bread has a hard crust and a soft inside, and they give you high-quality pepper and olive oil for dipping. While you wait for your food, you can make your own dipping sauce (my own idea here) by pouring a dollop of olive oil onto your plate and some vinegar into it. Then put some cracked pepper on top. It’s a good mix of tastes.
I got a Caesar salad for an appetizer, as usual. The croutons were crisp and the dressing had an excellent kick to it. They used more of the lettuce stem than I’d like though. But they aren’t at all stingy with their Parmesan cheese.
My gnocchi was decent as well, in well-spiced tomato sauce. My dad ordered a dish called Anna’s Homemade Sausage Lasagna. They used Andouille sausage- smoked pork sausage, and spiced it perfectly. The house coffee was good, and they give you heavy cream, not half-and-half.
The only thing I really didn’t like was the vanilla bean crème brulee. I like vanilla bean anything, so it was a huge disappointment when I cracked through the caramel crust to encounter what looked and tasted exactly like scrambled eggs. The cannoli, though, my dad informed me, was out of this world.
My Rating: 7.5
Recommended Dish: Cannoli
Atmosphere: Big and classic, meant to bring in traffic
Price Range: $25-45 per person, not counting wine
Ferraro’s of Westfield
14 Elm Street, Westfield, NJ 07090
When an ice cream says it tastes like green tea, it rarely actually tastes like green tea. It tastes like an artists’ rendition of green tea, or like green tea’s rendition of arty food. Either way, you know that there can’t be THAT much green tea in the ice cream or else you’d have a closer approximation.
Enter Sparky’s Homemade Ice Cream. You know they pack a high content of the title ingredient because you have to be 21 to order the White Russian. Other unusual flavors include pineapple upside-down cake, salted chocolate, mango, and lavender honey. Lavender honey is my favorite because it’s soothing. It smells like lavender, and tastes like honey. The raspberry and blueberry ice cream are better than the blueberries themselves. You also might want to try the traditional flavors like chocolate: Sparky’s chocolate is like traditional chocolate ice cream in the same way the Enola Gay is like a paper airplane.
My Rating: 9
Recommended Dish: Lavender Honey
Atmosphere: Usually a line, but you can look at the art on the walls
Price Range: $4-7
Clientele: Students and parents with kids
21 S 9th St Columbia, MO 65201
I wore this silk jumpsuit last weekend to Sniffapalooza. I took the picture in the dressing room at Bergdorf’s. To anyone who’s wondering, I got the jumpsuit from Shopbop.
I also wore a cotton hat by La Coppola Storta (they used to have a store in Soho, but now they’re just in Europe.) Shoes by John Fluevog. The costume necklace was my aunt Joan’s.
I’ve been too busy to post anything whatsoever, but I’m soon going to review Hot Topic’s new perfume line Bitty Betty’s and a lovely perfume called NY Steel Flowers. NY Steel Flowers is the brainchild of the idiosyncratic new perfume house Arts and Scents. Stay tuned!