Parfum Couture Denis Durand by M. Micallef

M. Micallef has teamed up with fashion designer Denis Durand to make a fragrance. Durand’s fashions are structural, and range from gorgeous, Grecian-style wearable:

denis durand 1

(*from YesiCannes)

to not so much.

denis durand 2

(*from Cyril B)

Don’t get me wrong. I love the color. I just think the bottom looks like rolled tin roofing welded together in the middle.

Parfum Couture Denis Durand is pretty, and the notes mesh well. It opens with a spicy cinnamon note and citrus accent. These are listed as the top notes, but they last all throughout the fragrance. The heart notes are the most prominent from top to bottom. The press material lists the heart notes in this order: Bulgaria rose, orange blossoms, honey, and animalis. If they were in descending order of prominence, I’d keep that list much the same but I’d put orange blossoms at the base. PCDD’s animalis note is strong but abstract, and takes precedence in the fragrance in the same way the aldehydes do in Chanel No. 5.

Other bloggers, like Kafkaesque, have noted the presence of an oud note. I do too, but it’s light, and I wouldn’t have picked up on it otherwise. The base notes are listed as sandalwood, patchouli, amber, and white musk. The sandalwood is also a top player in the structure of PCDD. Overall I don’t notice much of a note evolution: the fragrance wears out slowly as the day goes on but none of the notes shift positions.

Parfum Couture Denis Durand is a bit hippieish, but it could work on an evening out.

Price Range: Very Expensive
Recommended Occasion: Any
Release Year: 2013
My Rating: 6.5

*This sample was provided by M. Micallef.

Posted in Amber, Animalis, Cinnamon, Citrus, Honey, Musk, Orange Blossom, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Péché Cardinal in Images

As promised, here’s Péché Cardinal in images. I don’t see any anthropomorphism in it, like I do in Habanita, but I can get a visual picture.

Péché Cardinal is based on a French dessert called Poires Belle Hélené, made of pears with chocolate syrup and vanilla ice cream. I’ve never had the dessert, but there’s plenty of recipes on the Internet. Check out the one under the picture and this one from the BBC.

Poires Belle Helene October 27th, 2005(*Thibeault’s Table Recipes)

A wearer of Péché Cardinal might also be wearing this cute but non-insipid 1923 vintage dress from Jeanne Lanvin.

vintagecouture_Lanvin(*Victoriana.com)

The main effect I get from Péché Cardinal is restrained playfulness. At the risk of triteness, I present to you the ultimate flirtatious, joy of spring picture:

fragonard(*Wikipedia=Jean-Honoré Fragonard)

…..along with its cartoon counterpart.

tumblr_lvnlc9pkdr1qhigt0o1_500(*From tumblr)

I never cease to be amazed at what you can find on the Internet. I’m thinking I’ll put music in my next Images review. Stay tuned.

Posted in Blackcurrant, Cedarwood, Coconut, Davana, Lily, Peach, Prune, Tuberose | Tagged , , , | 4 Comments

11 Memorable Meals

Leaving_memories_by_bazsii8

So I got this idea from Natalie at another perfume blog, who in turn got it from The French Exit.

I keep a diary, but it doesn’t usually occur to me to write thematic lists in it. I had a lot of fun remembering foods that tie into other important parts of my life. Enjoy!

1.) When I was about six, my mother took me to a really nice restaurant in Baltimore. It was candle-lit, but I remember it being so dark that I couldn’t see much. I ate fruit out of a wine glass. I don’t remember if the fruit cup was any better than other fruit cups, but it was the first food I ever remember eating. She was so proud of herself for bringing me there, and I remember her beaming.

2.) When I wasn’t much older than that, I had this food set called Dr. Dreadful. You could use assorted powders and gummy pieces to make candies from a container that looked like this:

Doctor-Dreadful-Zombie-Lab-nowatermark

Other girls had Easy Bake ovens, and I had that. I would invite a girl from the neighborhood to spend the night, and we would stay up making Dr. Dreadful candy. I remember thinking it was better than a lot of store-bought candy. A few weeks later my mother caught her stealing school supplies from my house. Fun times though, in retrospect.

3.) When I was a kid, my dad lived three hours away and he would drive to come pick me up in Baltimore to visit his house in Western MD on weekends. It’s a common trucker route, and I remember we would stop at a truck stop called Truck City. I would get a grilled cheese sandwich every time. Then we would go get a fortune card for me from this machine that had a big, really well-crafted wizard in it. It was the same routine for years. When Truck City closed, it broke my heart.

Sideling-hill-road-cut(*We passed Sideling Hill on the drive to Western MD.)

4.) I went to the Silver Diner in Baltimore for my seventeenth birthday. The servers came out and clapped and sang Happy Birthday to me. I was embarrassed and proud at the same time. I liked the Silver Diner because everything about it was big. The spaghetti was almost as thick as my pinky finger, and you got an inordinate amount of soft butter spooned onto the side so you could put it on. They didn’t hold the cheese either.

5.) I remember a few great dates when I treated my boyfriend to dinner in my senior year of high school. The first time we went to a fancy Spanish place in DC that was top-ranked in The Washington Post and I loved it, but he didn’t like the snob vibe. The second time he picked a smaller place with a college vibe and finger food. It’s called La Tasca. From this, I learned that different people value different things in culture, and that you can make yourself happier by making someone else happy doing what they like.

6.) During college, I used to sit at the coffee shop for hours doing my homework. Not terribly original, I know, but if you’d gone to The Lost Dog you’d understand the appeal. I don’t think Shepherdstown, WV is ever going to have a Starbucks because the people would revolt. They make really original drinks. For about a year I’d order a “lattea,” a tea made with milk or soymilk. I chose a white tea called Jasmine Silver Needle. Then I’d order an avocado shake with honey and cinnamon. I remember reading the notebooks they had for people to draw in, and people would write on the walls in the bathroom.

I hope the Lost Dog always looks just like this:

lost dog

7.) My roommate and I used to go to a dive called Tony’s and order slices of mediocre pizza at any time from noon to 3 AM. I’d eat the pizza and then stick the crust into their excellent Parmesan (why was it so good, I wonder?). The memorable thing about Tony’s is that I went there so many times. It was the primary convening place for pretty much everyone, for the whole time I was in town.

8.) The first thing I learned to cook well is a stir-fry dish made with white rice, red peppers, and garlic. I cooked the rice al dente and the vegetables so that they were still crisp, but permeable, and then fried all ingredients in a pan with apple cider vinegar. It’s pretty easy to make if you do the prep work. When my friends and I went to Raleigh on Spring Break, I made this dish and substituted the leftover (crap) beer for the apple cider vinegar. It was a hit, even though the leftover rice took about half an hour to remove from the sink drain.

9.) There’s a place in Manhattan’s East Village called Sarita’s Mac and Cheese that is phenomenal. I used to eat there a lot when I took classes at NYU. There are other macaroni and cheese places, but Sarita’s is so organized and has such varied options (they offer macaroni and cheese based on European countries as well as different American fare such as Cajun) that it can’t really be related to anything else. You can get breadcrumbs on top, almost any cheese in any quantity, and right out of the pan. It’s good enough to make you cry if you’re the crying type.

Doesn’t this look phenomenal?
smac(*NYU student housing blogs)

10.) Every time I go to the beach, I get Boardwalk Fries. They’re thick and brown and I slather them in vinegar and salt. But I prefer sugar if it’s an option. Then I get cheesy sauce. I think Boardwalk Fries are evocative for everybody, but thinking about them is such an easy way to make myself happy.

11.) I also used to go to this place called Bubblecup in Missouri (I wrote a review of Lollicup, the company that supplied it) to study. That milk tea is tremendously fattening, but I got a lot of joy out of the atmosphere. Bubble tea may be the most unabashedly femmey pleasure I have besides perfume.

(P.S.: When you look up “memories” on Google Images, most of the images are resoundingly sad. I picked the one above from bazsii8 on deviantart because it’s hopeful, but still bittersweet and distant. It raises the memories to lofty heights while still acknowledging that they’re gone.)

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Péché Cardinal by Parfums MDCI

36505

I went to Osswald looking for a perfume that I was sure I could wear all the time for the price. I hadn’t tried many of Parfums MDCIs offerings, but there they were in their unabashed, even kitschy neoclassicism, with the marble busts sitting atop the clear bottles like triumphant Roman carvings. I didn’t know anything about Péché Cardinal when I tried it, but I knew I’d get a lot of use out of it. The beautiful deep peach note is consistent, contemporary, and lasts for hours.

Péché Cardinal is what I’d consider the epitome of a gourmand. I was told that it’s based on a French dessert. The name means Cardinal Sin in French, which I don’t really think is befitting for the fragrance unless you think it’s a sin to smell this good. The note list is as follows, from LuckyScent (also where I got the picture): davana, peach, coconut, blackcurrant, tuberose, prune, lily, cedar, sandalwood, musk.

I only notice some of these notes distinctly, at different points throughout Péché Cardinal’s evolution. The first note is, as every other review says, a big juicy peach that smells at least as good as the real thing. But Péché Cardinal refrains from being a one-note wonder by adding a dollop of blackcurrant along with the peach for depth. The prune note also jumps ship, adding a dryness for what could be aptly described as olfactory texture. This triad holds throughout the fragrance.

The best thing about Péché Cardinal is that the sweet notes are balanced almost exactly by dry and acidic notes. While I would describe it as being more sweet than not, the sweet factor never rises about a 7.5 out of 10 because of the prune, blackcurrant, cedar, and davana. Davana is a small herb that, judging by my small sample of davana oil, smells like equal parts apricot and turpentine. These notes remain a backdrop from top to bottom. The tuberose is the backdrop to the backdrop. The drydown is tactful, but interesting, like filming footage shown at the end of a movie. It smells nondescriptly waxy, which in itself might not be interesting but it is in this context.

Péché Cardinal might not be as overtly classical as other MDCI fragrances, such as Enlevement au Serail or Chypre Palatin, but it does have a balancing act that’s typical of vintage perfume. It’s a beautiful and underrated Parfums MDCI fragrance that is well worth the money if you’re passionate about perfume.

Perfumer: Amandine Marie
Price Range: Very (Very) Expensive
Recommended Occasion: Any
Release Year: 2008
My Rating: 9

Peche Cardinal has been reviewed many times:

Olfactoria loves Peche Cardinal as much as I do.

Angela at Now Smell This takes note of the tuberose more than I do.

Elena Vosnaki at Perfume Shrine writes a technical and beautiful review.

Patty at Perfume Posse sees a lot of maturity in Peche Cardinal.

Posted in Blackcurrant, Cedarwood, Coconut, Davana, Lily, Musk, Peach, Prune, Sandalwood, Tuberose | Tagged , , | 6 Comments

Until Next Week…..

There will be zero posts this week.

ZERO

I’m finishing up my internship and catching up on some things at home. Next week I’ll review MDCI’s Peche Cardinal in words and images.

Have a good week!

Posted in Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

Opium

Yves Saint Laurent’s bomb Opium is one of the more controversial perfumes. Years after its release, in 2000, Opium was banned from China because of the opium trade connotations. (That’s interesting stuff: read about the Opium Wars here.) Opium also had one of the most explicit ads ever, which has nothing to do with how the perfume smells but man, she looks great.

Opium illustrates that art is a reflection of its times. It is an homage to the late 70s and 80s as times of excess, and serves as a time capsule of sorts. Beth from Perfume Smellin’ Things gives us a great contextual review.

When I put Opium on, resinous is the first word that came to mind. Opium is indeed smoky, and it does smell like how I imagine an opium den would smell. They got the point across. It also smells slightly medicinal, which is a nod to the fact that opium has also been used for its medicinal properties.

The note list is as follows, from Fragrantica: coriander, plum, citruses, mandarin orange, pepper, jasmine, cloves, west indian bay and bergamot; middle notes are carnation, sandalwood, patchouli, cinnamon, orris root, peach, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are labdanum, tolu balsam, sandalwood, opoponax, musk, coconut, vanilla, benzoin, vetiver, incense, cedar, myrrh, castoreum and amber. Basically, everything dark, resinous, and balsamic is here.

The rose stands out more than a lot of the other notes, and it’s musty, like its been decorating a table in an opium den forever and now is more infused with the smoke than it is with its own scent. The strong clove note cuts through the resins and gums to add a more specific spicy touch. Opium actually smells like licorice from afar, but up-close it doesn’t. The effect gets lighter at the end. You can feel Opium losing weight and intensity, just like its popularity did.

Basically, Opium is a bomb of a thing. It’s actually not that loud, but the idea certainly is, and the result is dense, nonspecific, and evocative. It’s a good perfume, but not my taste. I don’t know if it’s because Opium was before my time, but I prefer fragrances in which the note evolution is a little more worked-out.

Perfumers: Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac
Price Range: Moderate
Recommended Occasion: Not sure
Release Year: 1977
My Rating: 7

Posted in Amber, Balsam, Benzoin, Bergamot, Carnation, Castoreum, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Clove, Coconut, Coriander, Incense, Jasmine, Labdanum, Muguet, Musk, Myrrh, Opoponax, Oriental, Orris Root, Patchouli, Peach, Plum, Rose, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

Moss Gown and Divine by Providence Perfume Company

coffrett_set_large(Picture from Providence Perfume Company’s website)

Providence Perfume Company is becoming somewhat of a conceptual addition to the organic perfume genre. I posted my review of the clever Cocoa Tuberose not too long ago. Since Charna, the Fifi-award winning perfumer, was kind enough to send me 4 samples, I’m going to review the other three in ascending order of quality.

Amber Cream Body Oil: Smells just like a creamsicle. Sorry. Rating: 3.5

Divine: Divine is a distinctive mix of notes. About half of it is an orange creamsicle and the other half is woody and inedible. The two halves are crammed together dissonantly, which makes it fascinating.

This is a citrus fragrance, but it isn’t necessarily bright and sunny.

I thought natural fragrances would be sloppy, short-lived, and filled with an unhip eagerness, but Honore des Pres and Providence Perfume Company proved me wrong. These are good fragrances. Rating: 6.5, released 2009

Moss Gown

This one is the most interesting. The effect is like oakmoss, but it obviously isn’t oakmoss. If someone cut down all but the most distinctive trees in a dense forest, the mood would be like the one conveyed by Moss Gown.

magical forest(Picture from trekearth.com)

Moss Gown also brings to mind that Project Runway challenge where they make dresses out of flower shop items.

stanley_hudson_flower_dress(Picture from sheknows.com)

Note list: Top notes: sunflower essence, mimosa, cedarwood, chamomile
Heart notes: boronia, rose, coffee flower, narcissus, lilac tincture, violet leaf
Base notes: cedarmoss, sandalwood absolute, white cedarwood absolute

The beginning is that awesome translucent green, followed by the sunflower and cedar. The middle takes a sharp turn towards lilacs and violets, like the note list says. For a while, you don’t notice the moss notes, but they come back.

I’m not a fan of green fragrances in general, but the cheerful abstraction of Moss Gown beats the literal mashup of title ingredients in Cocoa Tuberose. The only thing I don’t like about Moss Gown is that it doesn’t hang around longer.

Rating: 7.5, released 2012

Perfumer: Charna Ethier
Price Range: Expensive
Recommended Occasion: Casual

Posted in Amber, Angelica, Bergamot, Cedarwood, Chamomile, Citrus, Lilac, Mimosa, Moss, Narcissus, Natural Perfume, Orange Blossom, Sandalwood, Sunflower, Violet, Woody | Tagged , , , , , | 4 Comments

Alba Botanica Natural Hawaiian Shampoo Body Builder Mango

mango-shmp(Picture from Alba Botanica.)

At the risk of looking like PR, I’m going to continue touting Alba Botanica’s products (Nubian Heritage’s too.) Both use natural ingredients, are small companies, and perhaps most importantly, they don’t test on animals.

Today’s recommendation is Alba Botanica’s volumizing shampoo. It smells at least as good as Beyond Paradise Women in my opinion. It makes your hair voluminous and shiny just as promised.

It is also free of sulfates and heavy minerals. Get the conditioner along with it. This shampoo can get a bit heavy, so rinse thoroughly.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Molinard’s Habanita in Images

So this is going to be nothing like my Chamade images. Habanita is dark, addicted, and used. There is longing in it, and dreaming too, but no joy.

Here’s who it reminds me of:

joan crawford smoking(Photo from drx.typepad.com)

I recently saw three of Joan Crawford’s movies (Mildred Pierce, The Damned Don’t Cry, and Possessed) and she has incredible presence. In this picture she has both the attitude I see in Habanita and the cigarette, which is its main note. Not pipe tobacco: cigarettes. And Habanita is all the better for it.

65.222.22a-b 0001(Photo from coutureallure)

This beautiful Norman Norell fur dress is what you would wear with Habanita. For some reason I never pictured anyone wearing anything but fur with it, either because it’s from the 20′s or because I got some of it on my fur collar and it stayed there for weeks.

And this is where a Habanita-wearing diva would go for a party:

georgian-hotel(Photo from discoverlosangeles.com)

Of course, a lot of those old Art Deco buildings now look like this:

art deco wreck(Photo from flickr)

…which fits into Habanita’s mood pretty well too.

Habanita starts out gruff, but fades into a powdery rose at the end. I think she’s sick of the party. The rest of the notes never completely wear out, but they do fade into a nostalgic shadow of what they were. If you’re a little bit maudlin you can interpret this as someone who wants the wild life to be over but knows she is running out of time. This is the effect:

clocks(Photo from picturemelyrical.tumblr.com)

Habanita is one of my all-time favorite perfumes, because it tells a linear story.

Posted in Bitter, Galbanum, Green, Leather, Old Classic, Powdery, Rose, Tobacco, Vanilla, Woody | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

Cafe Lalo (New York City)

cafe lalo

(Image from polyvore.com)

If you’re looking for a charming café that really looks like something out of an old French movie, you’ve found it. Café Lalo serves pastries and light, healthy fare on the Upper West Side in an airy little building. Not only can you get over 100 different desserts and top-notch cheese platters, they also expanded their bar. On Friday and Saturday nights it’s open until 4 AM.

When I was there I ordered a goat cheese and mint sandwich on whole wheat bread. They weren’t stingy with the goat cheese, and the sandwich came with both greens and Mediterranean salad. I like the food there: they use their imaginations to pair things and there’s nothing fake about it, but it isn’t spectacular. On the other hand, I haven’t tried the cheese or the wine but I’m assuming they’re great from the feel of the place. Café Lalo’s claim to fame is the desserts.

It was difficult to pick a dessert when my options ranged from red velvet cake to dulce de leche cheesecake to lemon mascarpone cake to a Venetian vanilla crepe. You learn to tell whether desserts are good or not from looking at them: the good stuff is soft and a bit fluffy. You can tell they didn’t add superfluous ingredients to impress gluttons who think denser is better. (If you pick up a Ho Ho you may notice that it’s about as heavy as a baseball.) I settled on Chocolate Respberry Delight: a chocolate and raspberry mousse cake with a chocolate cookie crust. It was predictably phenomenal.

But I have to point out that my favorite thing about Café Lalo is the shirts. They carry women’s and men’s shirts, in black and white, featuring the same beautiful types of semi-fantasy postcard-type art that’s on the walls of the café. I have one with a lady riding a zebra, a lady sucking her fingers after eating cake, the Statue of Liberty, a Can Can dancer, and several others. They’re $25 each and you’ll wear them for the rest of your life.

My Rating: 8
Recommended Dish: Any dessert
Atmosphere: Airy, cheerful café filled with light and beautiful art on the walls.
Clientele: Arty types, Upper West Side moms with kids
Price Range: $20-$35 per person

201 West 83rd Street
New York, NY 10024
http://www.cafelalo.com/

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