Knowing by Estee Lauder

Knowing(*Picture from Fragrantica)

I’ve sampled Knowing many times, but I was never quite sure how to address it in a full review. I’ll just get to the point here, with even less frippery than usual.

Perfumes: The Guide says that Estee Lauder is one of the most consistent keepers of quality fragrances. This is true, and a good deal of Lauder’s fragrances (White Linen, Azuree, Beyond Paradise Men) are excellent regardless of the times. But the problem with consistently upholding the past is also that the result can resemble a perfumery time capsule. I can see Estee Lauder’s evolution from the oversized 80s to the sparse 90s and the fruity floral aughts. Knowing is a deep green musk that’s big enough to represent the 80s but is basically clean enough to bring into the 90s. The effect is a little like that of Ivoire de Balmain.

I have to borrow Perfumes: The Guide’s “mossy” description of Knowing, because I can’t think of a better way to describe the dark, earthy green. The mossy note is placed on top of a musk base that smells a lot like Downy sheets. I guess Knowing came first, so that isn’t necessarily a bad thing in context.

Estee Lauder’s website lists the notes as follows:
Top Notes- rose, tuberose, mimosa, plum, pittosporum.
Heart Notes: Jasmine, patchouli, orange flower.
Base: Oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, amber.

But all I can smell is the big mossy musk, and a little bit of vetiver. The moss doesn’t smell like oakmoss either. It’s distinctly artificial like the musk it’s sitting on.

But oddly enough, that doesn’t make Knowing a bad fragrance. I rather like it. I wouldn’t wear it, but I think it’d smell good on a certain kind of suburban woman, in her 50′s or so. She’s serious and a little repressed, but thinks about her wilder past a lot. If this is you, I recommend it.

Perfumer: Jean Kerléo
Price Range: Moderate
Recommended Occasion: Casual
Release Year: 1988
My Rating: 6.5

*Don’t assume I’m right: some people really love Knowing. There’s plenty of glowing reviews on a thread at Basenotes.

Posted in 80s fragrance, Moss, Musk, Vetiver | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

Café Asean (New York City)

Cafe Asean(photo from Yelp)

Café Asean is a small, cash-only Vietnamese restaurant that’s been perched nonchalantly in Greenwich Village for years. When I went to NYU I never noticed it, but it was ranked highly in New York Magazine, so my dad and I went there.

It was packed. We had to wait at least 20 minutes for a seat in the trendy, dimly-lit dining room. They actually play dance music. But I could tell it was a good restaurant, because something about the atmosphere usually gives that away. Usually, the less trendy the environment, the better the food, but in this case the closeness of the space made up for the trendiness. Crappy restaurants give you more room to sit so you’ll keep ordering food just to stay there. It’s also to a crappy restaurant’s benefit if there’s a lot of space because it creates distance between hostile customers and the people who provided their subpar food.

You won’t have to wait long once you’re in, because the service is great. Café Asean serves neat, reasonably-portioned authentic dishes. I ordered Chinese broccoli steeped in wine sauce with crispy garlic flakes on it. That was three main ingredients and three dissonant flavors on one plate. It was delicious. My dad ordered the salmon dish, Cha Gio Ca, with basil/mint dipping sauce. He said the salmon and the sauce were both a 10.

For the main course I got Sayur Campur: vegetables and tofu in curry sauce. The sauce was thick and I got a generous medley of squash, green and red peppers, eggplant, green beans, cauliflower, and big tofu squares. Dad got the Bo Nuong Hua: grilled hangar steak marinated in soy and lemongrass and was equally pleased.

Not only will you enjoy your meal, but it’s political food. The Asean part of the title stands for Association of Southeast Asian Nations, a political group that promotes the cultural and economic welfare of its member nations Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Singapore.

My Rating: 9
Recommended Dish: Chinese broccoli in wine sauce
Atmosphere: Intimate, and also a bit crammed. Trendy. I don’t think it’s officially a student hangout though; I saw all kinds of people there.
Price Range: $18-$30 per person

117 W. 10th St.
(Between 6th Ave. & Greenwich Ave.)
New York, NY 10011
(212)-633-0348
http://www.cafeasean.com/

*Café Asean was reviewed by Eric Asimov in the New York Times.

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Interview with Margot Berwin

margot berwin(Photo Credit: Michael Lionstar.)

I sent some questions to Margot Berwin, who was happy to answer them. Here’s the interview:

Me: When did you start to write?

Margot: I’ve always been very verbal and I began to speak at 7 months. As my mother tells the story, I was lying on my back on the changing table and I looked her right in the eye and said, “mama powder!”

She got scared and ran out of the room.

I started writing for real at six years old. I was very shy so I didn’t tell anyone or show anyone my writings.

Me: Do you think New Orleans has a mystical air about it?

Margot: New Orleans is a lot of things, and mystical is definitely one of them. It’s warm and soft, tough and scary. It’s tarot card readings and voodoo shops. It’s Marie Laveau the voodoo queen of New Orleans. It’s po’ boys and crawfish boils in Mid-City with hot sauce that will make your eyeballs ache. It’s graves that sit on top of the ground instead of underneath. For sure it’s a perfumed city–scented with 30 foot magnolia trees, Carolina Jessamine, Wisteria, Gardenia, and of course, Jasmine. And mostly and above all and floating on top of everything…is music.

I went for a month, stayed for almost a year, and wrote the entire first draft of Scent of Darkness. It definitely had a mystical pull on me!

Me: Did you have any literary antecedents in mind when writing Scent of Darkness?

Margot: I loved Chandler Burr’s The Perfect Scent, and Anne Rice’s Interview With a Vampire with its perfect descriptions of New Orleans will always be a favorite. Also Bob Dylan’s Chronicles: Volume One, in which he describes arriving in New Orleans in the early part of his career. I found Chronicles in a bookstore on Decatur Street while I was writing Scent of Darkness. I rarely read while I’m writing but I couldn’t put that one down. I would sit in my flat on St. Louis, really mad at myself for reading about Dylan and not working on Scent of Darkness.

Me: What did Louise want Eva to gain from the perfume?

Margot: She wanted Eva to know that all of her desirability and power was her own, something she was born with, not given to her by a man or a job or money or place in society.

Me: Did Louise make perfume for commercial purposes?

Margot: I don’t think so. I never thought about that while writing. But if she had she would have made a fortune.

Me: Would the perfume have worked its magic on anyone except Eva?

Margot: Well, in a way it did work it’s magic on everyone around Eva. It changed Michael, and Gabriel and even the women in the sauna at the gym. It affected the tarot card reader and the boy next-door and even the animals in the Quarter.

Me: Gabriel showed up out of nowhere. Did Louise have anything to do with that? I’m kind of led to believe that their meeting was destined because he’s the one who discovers the source of her power.

Margot: They both have artistic designs (him) and markers that seem to come from the outside, but that they were actually born with. This connects them and makes them the same. I think they were destined too, not by Louise, but by destiny itself.

Me: Eva is more self-aware than most girls her age. Why is she so passive?

Margot: I like to think of Eva as very introspective. Quiet. That’s why her grandmother made a perfume for her—to bring her out of her shell. To show her who she really is.

Also, from a storyteller’s perspective, if Eva were more outgoing there would be no story because she wouldn’t need to find her strengths, to change, which is what the book is really about.

Me: I like how Eva learns to work with the people around her instead of trying to change them. The good guy stays good, the bad guy stays bad, and Eva understands that the onus is on her to accept her mother if she wants them to have a better relationship.

Margot: Yes, I’m glad you noticed that. Eva is strong in that way. She doesn’t blame her mother or her absent father. Even though she is quiet, and yes, maybe a little bit passive, she knows that it is up to her to change. I like this quality as well.

Me: Do you think Eva will become a perfumer?

Margot: Yes! And you’re the very first person to ask that. I think her love for Louise, her grandmother, will lead her in that direction. And the very first scent she’ll create will have jasmine, leather, fire and rose.

(Me: So, read Scent of Darkness. It’s a great book. Check it out.)

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Scent of Darkness by Margot Berwin

scent of darkness

Perfume as a concept is still teetering between the realms of art and science, but the popular eye hasn’t yet seen it set up camp in either. As a result, scent is often portrayed as a mystical, sexual thing (see Patrick Suskind’s novel Perfume or any pheromone marketing schtick) that has power over subconscious urges and is waiting to be harnessed. Funneled from the genres of fairy tale, harlequin novel, and coming-of-age story comes Margot Berwin’s second book, Scent of Darkness, which makes use of the trope in a melancholy way.

Margot’s main character, 18-year-old Evangeline, moves to New Orleans when her beloved “aromata” (perfumer) grandmother, Louise, dies and leaves her the house. Louise only forbade Eva from going into one room in the house, and Eva obeys this wish until she meets a boy named Gabriel, whom in typical 18-year-old fashion she believes will bring her both the pinnacle of joy and the nadir of sorrow. This turns out to be true, because he coaxes her to go into the room and open a perfume Louise made for her, which a note warns will change her life forever. As a result, Eva is infused with a jasmine, rose, fire, and leather scent which is subsequently shown to be the most beautiful and powerful scent in the world. This scent, which Eva herself has no control over, leads her to become a muse for a bitterly mediocre painter who endangers her life for his art.

The strength of Berwin’s novel is the extremes. While the basic plot is predictable, the symbolism, the archetypes, everything about the novel that could have been ridiculous is made masterful. And the scent as melancholy is done just right. Louise says of a pastor who smells of fig: “He has the scent of someone who gives it their all but does not succeed. It bursts into bloom with all its vigor, and it tries so hard to hang on, but it dies as soon as it leaves the vine. He’ll try to hang on but he won’t make it. A rush, maybe of insight, and then a swift death. One of the sweetest scents on earth, the fig.” Time is seen as lost opportunities: Louise tells Eva that a scent should have “a sadness for a desire that will never be met, a person who got away, or a thing that can never be had. All the great perfumes contain this feeling.”

Eva’s melancholy is, of course, that she never really knows if she is loved for herself or her scent.

Berwin is not afraid of uncomfortable truths. In fact, she embraces them. It makes me uncomfortable how much Eva hates her mother. The line about how the smoke cloud over her face is a good thing because it covers the “mottled and sagging” wrinkles caused by that smoke is excellent. It makes me uncomfortable that no character in this entire novel has ever had a good relationship, and that Eva knows that and fears for her future. But possibly the single greatest part of Scent of Darkness is how Eva reacts to her grandmother’s death. She feels guilty that she is paying more attention to Gabriel than bemoaning her loss. She imagines an accumulation of loved ones building up later in her life, all waiting for their turn to be grieved properly because she didn’t learn how to do it right the first time. It doesn’t fully hit Eva that Louise is dead until she meets another mystic.

The weakness of the novel is its heroine. While Eva’s character is easy to empathize with- she spends much of her time worrying about whether she is treating people well and she strongly resists an affair- she isn’t distinctive enough. Because she was nondescript before her scent, it makes sense that she is probably the most passive femme fatale I can imagine. Although in all honesty it is difficult to imagine a more passive human being in general. Her activities as she describes them are sleeping 14 hours a day and walking around New Orleans by herself at night. When she starts getting fat, she goes to the gym and is immediately exhausted by watching people “running to nowhere on the treadmills…like the new Sisyphuses of our time.” I laughed out loud at that point, but I’m not sure it was intended to be funny. The confusing part is that Eva wants to be useful: she falls in love with the painter because he gives her a purpose. But no mention is ever made of Eva’s future work or school endeavors.

Granted, people like this do exist, and Lena Dunham’s Girls has endeared us to female leads who are the opposite of go-getters. But Eva’s grandmother intended the perfume to reflect the personality Eva had already. I am left wishing Eva was a more interesting character, since her scent is so dangerous that she was told to leave New Orleans forever.

Despite the slowness of the main character, I should point out that Scent of Darkness is a really fast read. I finished it in 24 hours. The intensity of the story is what kept me reading, but the imagery is what stayed with me. The lasting impact is that I’ve never been to New Orleans, but now I very much want to go there.

Scent of Darkness has also been reviewed at
The Washington Post
NPR
Now Smell This

Come by tomorrow to read an interview with Margot Berwin!

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Chamade Imagery

I already wrote about the beauty of Chamade in a post, but now that it’s getting to be spring I’d like to portray it in pictures. Chamade’s a pretty easy one in my mind because it smells natural and has a lack of evolution and intent. To me it shows a beautiful harmony between the notes, but remains a little too worked-out to be a completely natural fragrance. It’s like perfect harmony between nature and man-made things. Here goes:

(*Ibiblio.org)
monet_giverny
I chose one of Monet’s paintings of his water garden at his house in Giverny, France. I thought of Monet because his paintings are semi-abstract, with lines blurring into each other in a way that they don’t in real life. But all of Chamade’s notes overlap, so structurally speaking, it’s a good match.

(*metmuseum.org)
h2_2009_300_146
I think Elsa Schiaparelli’s ca. 1940 dress captures the civilized beauty of Chamade. It’s a springtime dress, just like the perfume, and it’s just about the right colors that come to mind when I think of Chamade. The lady wearing it could either be gardening and trying very, very hard to make her garden smell as good, or she could be outside walking through the park just enjoying the scent.

(*etsy)
digital collage
This digital collage sheet shows harmony between people and nature, because everything is purple toned, and the flowers and tree are in no way obfuscating the house. They’re accenting it. The house and the flowers are really in-sync here. But the obsessively constant purpleness of those flowers wouldn’t have been found in nature, just like the blend of notes in Chamade wouldn’t.

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Happy Easter!

alisa-burke-watercolor-easter-eggs(Easter eggs from parentsociety.com)

Hope you have a great day!

I am currently sitting on the Greyhound on my way to Columbia, Missouri to see some friends. The restaurants there are pretty good. Expect restaurant reviews from Columbia as well as New York City in the near future. I won’t be posting on Friday.

But stay tuned for this coming Wednesday! I’m going to review Margot Berwin’s mystical romance novel Scent of Darkness, about a girl in New Orleans who becomes infused with the most beautiful perfume on earth.

It gets better: I’ll also interview the author!

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Manguier Métisse by Huitième Art

From luckyscent.com

From luckyscent.com

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume is known for using unusual ingredients in unusual combinations (the starchy iris in Felanilla is a wonderful example). He does this in different tones though. Parfumerie Generale is more on the whimsical side, and his line Huitième Art, which debuted in 2010, is more highbrow.

Huitième Art is an exercise in phyto-perfumery. I read a detailed interview with Guillaume at CaFleureBon, but the easier explanation comes from LuckyScent:

“natural ingredients (often exotic plants, roots, flowers, wood and fruit) get “olfactory photographs” taken so that their complexity of scent can be reproduced in extracts and then combined with synthetics to smell naturalistic.”

I discovered this gem on the shelf below Parfumerie Generale at Osswald. I was advised to try Manguier Métisse in particular because I said I like sweet scents. It stood out as soon as I sprayed it, because the notes are so different. The list is as follows: mango bark, tea, frangipani. That’s it. And less is better here. It doesn’t smell at all like it’s trying to be minimalist.

The opening is quiet and beautiful, and the notes evolve slowly. I haven’t smelled mango bark, but this is clearly it because the effect is both a natural mango and a woody base so well-combined that they’re meant to be fused together. The mango is lush without any Spring Break connotations.

I don’t notice the frangipani (a waxy South American and Caribbean flower) coming in until a little further on in the fragrance. It creates a more tropical effect, especially when the mango part of the mango bark seems to override the bark part. The fascinating thing is that while the mango and bark note are the same, they sometimes seem to diverge. I’m pretty sure there’s a light vanilla accent too, although I don’t notice the tea. The base is both woody and floral while managing to smell nothing like any other perfume’s rendition of either.

Best of all, Manguier Métisse is not an arrogant perfume. In the era of fruity florals, I couldn’t have pictured a tropical fragrance anywhere near as studious. It’s eminently wearable, and as an antidote to the insipid usurpers of its genre, it’s having its day.

Perfumer: Pierre Guillaume
Price Range: Expensive
Recommended Occasion: Casual
Release Year: 2010
My Rating: 10

Read some other reviews of Manguier Métisse at AnotherPerfumeBlog and CaFleureBon.

Posted in Frangipani, Mango, Mango Bark, Tea, Vanilla | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Osswald Perfume Store

Osswald-exterior(photo from Now Smell This)

Osswald is a family-owned perfume store from Zurich, Switzerland. It’s been in business since 1921 and was founded by Boris Dreiding. Osswald opened in Manhattan (Soho) in August, and I just got the chance to see it last week. It gives me great pride that Osswald decided NYC was a more important second location than Paris. In a predominantly French industry, that means wonderful things about the American perfume market.

And Osswald is, as so many bloggers promised, a gorgeous store. It’s quiet, clean, and beautifully laid-out, with no corner too full to see every perfume on display. I’d just gotten back from a bunch of fabric stores, and Osswald was an effective reprieve from sensory overload. There’s chairs to sit in and you aren’t rushed through the store. The interior was designed by Michelli Construction and Consulting, where I got this picture:

michelli osswald

Osswald only carries high-end perfumes, and the salespeople are friendly, not pushy, and a wealth of information about their subject. The store manager, Clément, asked me what notes I liked (tuberose) and found me a beautiful fragrance by Profumum Roma. I took my time and sampled a bunch of perfumes. There were some lines I hadn’t heard of, like YS Uzac, biehl.parfumkunstwerke, and Arquiste. They have Parfums M. Micallef, Parfums MDCI, and Amouage. Perfumer Maison Francis Kurkdjian has his line there, and perfumer Pierre Guillaume has two: the whimsical Parfumerie Generale and the more grown-up Huitième Art. I was advised to try Huitième’s Manguier Métisse and it was predictably wonderful.

My favorite thing, though, had to be the miniature perfume wall.
osswald perfume wall
*from Fragrantica

So yes, Osswald really is that good. If you go there, you will find a perfectly curated selection of niche perfumes, like a fine old restaurant with a pared-down menu of only the top dishes. You will be free of ominous posturing from both heavily-marketed perfumes and their cheerleaders. And most importantly, you will feel totally comfortable being there.

311 West Broadway
(Soho) New York, NY 10013
212-625-3111
http://www.osswaldnyc.com/

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Support Gay Marriage…..

…..with this amazing equality sign! It’s by Dan Lacey. He’s made an art career out of painting pancakes. Check it out here.

red_gay_marriage_equal_sign

There’s no way I could keep that goodness to myself.

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Atelier Cologne at Bergdorf’s with Sylvie Ganter

sylvie and christopher
*Picture of Soho store and Atelier Cologne owners from Vanity Fair

So I had the good fortune to meet Sylvie Ganter, the owner of Atelier Cologne, at a perfume event on March 21 at Bergdorf Goodman’s. Atelier was first sold at Bergdorf’s, so it was even better to see the line at the place of its inception. I got to ask a few questions about where the idea for Atelier Cologne came from and how it’s orchestrated.

First off, I’d like to point out that Sylvie is very amicable and wears unique jewelry. She runs Atelier with her husband Christopher Cervasel. They have five kids between them and, like owners of any other enterprise, they are always together and work all the time. She has worked in the perfume industry for Hermes and Fresh. Atelier took off quickly and has some pretty high-profile perfumers: Jerome Epinette of the bold, happy Bal d’Afrique fame stretched his element when he did the translucently pristine Rose Anonyme and Bois Blonds. So far though, Ralf Schweiger’s Orange Sanguine is my favorite. Sylvie says she wears it on cold days as a pick-me-up.

The concept behind Atelier Cologne is to make citrus-based scents (they all have citrus) that last a lot longer than traditional colognes. Being a top note, citrus wears off quickly. But all of Atelier’s colognes have 15% or more perfume concentration. Each of Atelier’s fragrances is designed around and named after a central note in a unique structure. The citrus makes that structure cleaner than it usually is in other brands. The notes are easy to decipher, demonstrating that a simple idea is often the most successful. Not to mention the prices are not insane.

You could get a free small bottle of cologne with your initials monogrammed onto a leather case if you bought a big bottle. (I was transfixed by the mechanism they used to engrave the initials.) I didn’t buy anything because I’d picked up Atelier’s new violet fragrance, Sous le toit de Paris, at their Soho store. So far you can only get it there. Expect a review in a few weeks: I’m excited about this clean violet!

*Also read CaFleureBon’s awesome interview with Sylvie Ganter.

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